How to Solve Your Clients’ Lockdown Colour Mistakes
Be prepared for when your salon reopens post-lockdown with this essential post-lockdown colour cheat sheet featuring expert advice on how to solve your client’s main post-lockdown colour mistakes
Lockdown colour mistake: My client’s home bleach has gone wrong – how do I know if the hair is beyond repair?
A: “chemical cut’ is when the hair becomes so over processed it effectively breaks away so you’ll need to do a ‘real’ haircut first. You should be able to feel the strands that are beyond help. When colouring you don’t want to add anything to the bleached hair that will cause further damage. You’ll be looking to raise the root colour, but also tone down the bleached area to match it using a glaze. Look at more natural options and use a bond builder. This will not repair the damage but it will form a seal around the damage, making it stronger. Colour added to the bleached section will fade as the hair will be porous so explain it may not last as long as normal.” Georgia Bell, Twisted Scissors Salon and Denman UK brand ambassador
Lockdown colour mistake: My client has experimented with blue dye. What’s the best way to remove it?
A: “Direct blue pigment is tricky to remove. Going in with a bleach mixed with a peroxide is the worst thing to do. The peroxide will activate and push the tone further into the hair cuticle. To get rid of a direct pigment colour I would use a colour remover, such as Schwarzkopf Professional Bond Enforcing Color Remover, with water or Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vario Blond pre-lightener and water, which also has integrated Fibre Bond Technology. This will keep the strength of the hair fibre intact whilst removing the tone. Apply a global application avoiding the natural root colour and check after 20 minutes. The mixture will gently remove the tone of the colour. Be patient and don’t over complicate the colour removal.” Sophie Gibson, Hooker & Young
Lockdown colour mistake: A client has box dyed their hair to a darker shade and now wants to go blonde. What’s the best way to approach this?
A:“It’s important to communicate the process and the journey the hair is going to take to get the desired result. Explaining the lifting process and how to maintain the new colour will fill your clients with confidence. They will also have more of an understanding and appreciate the time and effort you’re putting in. We always use the slow and low technique when lifting with Balmain Couleurs Couture. This helps us control the lift whilst maintaining the integrity of the hair. The silk protein and argan elixir in the colour ensures we get those beautiful, long lasting results every time.” Simon Tuckwell, owner of Tuckwell & Co
Lockdown colour mistake: One of my clients has box dyed their hair and has a patchy result. How do I fix this?
A: “First, as the client has carried out a box dye make sure you skin test and strand test before you carry out any technical service. Remember this should always be carried out on all clients 48 hours before the colour service. Your client wanted one colour all over, but the box dye has taken to some parts better than others, now it has a patchy result and dullness without shine.
Depending on the depth and the tone of the box dye, it will dictate what technical service needs to be carried out. Let’s say you are going for a warm brown with richness and beautiful shine, this is quite a simple task. First of all, I would focus on the patchy areas and choose the depth and tone you need. Apply to the lighter areas first. Then apply a demi tone over the rest as we do not want to have too much of a colour build up.” Paul Chandler, Advanced Pro Salon senior art team stylist and technician
Lockdown colour mistake: How can I help my client stick to our colour plan between appointments?
A: “We can’t control what a client does at home with their hair and which products they will be using. Although they may agree to a plan in the salon, without your constant encouragement and control, they will be likely to slip off the plan and forget to follow your recommendations.
Reassess the hair and take a strand test at each visit. You should also discuss your client’s homecare regime and monitor their appointments. If they need to visit regularly for toners and you don’t see them for a while it’s good practise to send them a gentle and helpful email reminder.” Andrew Smith, Andrew Smith Salons and milk_shake ambassador
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