The Three Most Common Colour Mistakes – And How To Deal With Them
As clients flood back to the salon, we’ve already seen a myriad of hair colour mistakes waiting to be rectified! Colour correction is still one of the most common services in the salon, so we got advice from Matrix artist Niall McNulty on how to solve the three most common hair colour mistakes in the salon.
“The colour consultation is more important than ever, as many clients don’t understand that their hair won’t be the same as before lockdown after one visit,” explains Niall McNulty. “We’re dealing with banding, large regrowths and home colour and we need to manage their expectations that we can’t go back lighter in one visit, or rectify the mistakes they have made. Initially it’s about making sure they realise what their hair will look like when they leave and starting them on a new hair journey.”
Here’s the three top common mistakes Niall sees in the salon – and the best way to deal with them.
Client: Usually has highlights or lowlights
Mistake: Root coverage
Rescue package: This was the biggest no-no during lockdown but many highlights and lowlights clients couldn’t resist plastering on an all-over colour to hide their roots. So now, they have warmer roots and translucent ends, and we have to balance the depth and add dimension. Some will have new regrowth, some will have coloured their hair more recently and in this case adding new highlights and lowlights isn’t enough. Add a root shadow between the foils to mimic natural shadowing which will add depth and make the new highlights pop.
Client: Blondes or brunettes
Mistake: all-over home colour
Rescue package: We’re seeing banding with clients who have applied an all-over colour at home. They’ve either gone a shade lighter or, usually, a shade darker than their usual colour so we have a dark band. As we head towards the summer many clients want to go lighter, so for those who have gone a shade darker, offer a clarifying treatment or use pre-lightener and water at the backwash to lift a level out of the colour. Then, colour the roots as you usually would, and even out the porosity through the mid-lengths and ends. If the banding is close to the roots, apply super-fine babylights to balance it out for a more multi-tonal look.
Mistake: DIY balayage
Rescue package: Clients think balayage looks easy and many have tried this at home during lockdown, but have ended up with a green or brassy, blocky dip dye effect. First, cleanse and clarify the hair – especially if they have put a darker colour on their roots as well. Then offer a partial balayage – isolated in packages for lift, use a lower developer and leave it on for longer. In between, use another tone on tone such as Matrix SoColorSync, to balance out the darker areas and allow the light sections to pop and contrast. I would also opt a products like Matrix Lightmaster with Bonder for this scenario as it gives me the confidence that I can lift the hair without damaging its integrity and condition. The consultation is really important here as many clients don’t understand that their hair may not be totally transformed in one visit.