2022's sustainable hair heroes

The hairdressing industry has had plenty to think about over the past two years and the subject of being sustainable has been bubbling away in the background. In the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic, many hair professionals are now focused on upping their game. Rebecca Barnes investigates: Thanks to PPE, we’ve wised up to the impact of non-recyclable plastics, and many consumers have adjusted their shopping habits, opting to stay local when possible over travelling further afield. One of our greatest commodities is water, and with a world shortage, this is arguably one of the most pressing issues for salons. So how exactly is the industry working towards a greener future? HJ spoke to three case studies (two salon owners, and one freelancer to prove that it’s not just business owners who can make a difference). And, we questioned some of the industry’s leading brands on their sustainability pledges. Case Study 1 – Rebecca Seal, owner of Rebecca Claire Salon, Worcester [caption id="attachment_87108" align="alignnone" width="667"] Rebecca Seal[/caption] “Our job as hairdressers involves caring for others but over time I noticed we weren’t caring for the planet. The way we deal with salon waste needs to change. The pandemic was the first time I have had more than a week off in years. Because of this, I had time to examine my business and plan how I wanted to grow and make changes. One key direction was sustainability, and I started by looking at what product brands and colour houses were offering. I came across FFØR, a British company offering cruelty-free, vegan products that smell divine. It ticks all the boxes for me – cool packaging which is 100% PCR (post-consumer recycled) and luxurious but not fussy. At the backwash, I use biodegradable disposable towels from a company called Scrummi – they are affordable and so soft and create a beautiful experience for guests. As a salon owner, I avoid wasting water washing them daily or having to replace them when they are covered in bleach stains. I have also swapped my backwash heads to eco heads which saves money on water and energy and improves water pressure. I send hair and metal waste to the Green Salon Collective for recycling – the hair is used to make hair booms which help clean oil spills from rivers and oceans. It feels great to know that they are using waste for something so good when otherwise it would go to landfill. I set up a hydration station for guests’ water bottles and glasses, and instead of constantly buying and recycling magazines, we now have books. One major step I took a few years ago was to go paperless. I use the Fresha online booking system to send confirmations and reminders to clients; as well as saving time, it has replaced paper diaries and appointment cards. Looking ahead, I am excited to have more people joining me while continuing to make small sustainability improvements.” Case Study 2 – Emma Eley, people manager for Blue Tit Salons [caption id="attachment_87105" align="alignnone" width="768"] Blue Tit Salons[/caption] Since 2019, Blue Tit has offset 110 per cent of its yearly carbon emissions by using non-toxic Oway products contained in recyclable amber glass bottles. This has reduced over 8000 plastic bottles a year from landfills and nearly 2000 bottles from retail. “People don’t realise that hairdressing salons are classed as having a high environmental impact due to the waste output. At Blue Tit, we are committed to creating a positive impact for our employees, clients, community and the environment. The salons have also installed Oway refill stations in all salons for customers to refill their purchases to minimise waste further. Blue Tit has also reduced 1,350,000 litres of water wastage a year by using EcoHeads, biodegradable hair towels and by recycling over 95 per cent of its waste products. In our salons, we also tend to use recycled or upcycled materials and furnishing wherever possible. It’s small changes that add up in terms of sustainability, every little bit helps! We’ve also made an effort to partner with other B Corp or sustainable brands in our salons to offer our clients an exclusive experience. Our sustainability commitments extend through to our partners as well. For example, we have an ongoing partnership with Sapling vodka, a climate positive vodka, and serve seasonal cocktails in-store to our customers. We love highlighting and supporting other sustainable brands as we believe in supporting one another. There are loads of other partnerships and plans we’ve got in the pipeline that surround sustainability and B Corp. It is a constant work in progress, but we will never stop improving where we can.” Case Study 3 – Ashleigh Hodges, freelance stylist, colourist and Davines ambassador [caption id="attachment_87106" align="alignnone" width="626"] Ashleigh Hodges[/caption] “Sustainability is one of the key pillars of my business and for me personally in day to day life. There isn’t a decision I make that I don’t think about the impact it will have on our planet. Due to that thought process, I have made many changes over the years. Although as my business is freelance, this can sometimes make it both easier and harder. The spaces I work out of – The Social and Hunter Collective – align with my sustainable values and work closely with Green Salon Collective to ensure we work as zero waste as possible. I have also aligned myself with the brand Davines as their global colour ambassador for sustainability reasons; being a B Corp they put the planet first in all decisions they make. The key thing I focus on is for my business to be a circular ecosystem. I consider everything I buy, including where it is from, whether it is independent, locally sourced and how much electricity and water is consumed in production. I then consider if it is reusable, to what extent I can reuse it, and finally how I can dispose of it sustainably. As I regularly work from home on Zoom classes and meetings, I have a fully renewable energy provider, Ecotricity, which is 100% vegan too. We even have a zero-waste system at home – despite the fact we live in a London flat, we compost on our balcony. It is so important for us to be making these fundamental changes right now, as we have run out of time to look after the earth – now we need to save it. Our industry produces so much waste and emissions, but we really can all make changes and do our bit. “ Now it's your turn! If you want to get started on your journey to becoming sustainable, here are six ways you can minimise plastic in your salon.

A word from some of the industry’s pioneers of sustainability

“Vish colour management technology has cut colour waste for hundreds of salons. We have begun expanding our partnerships to other sustainable brands and colour houses to help salons access the tools they need to reduce waste and attain their sustainability goals.” “One of Justice Professional’s strongest core values is sustainability, which is why in 2022 we are taking a step forward and focusing on recycling salon waste, such as bottles and tools, as well as the hair we cut. Furthermore, our holiday packs will be made of recyclable water bottles.” “Aveda was born cruelty-free, never tested on animals. all products have been 100% vegan since 2019, but this year we have reformulated our pro colour range with sustainably sourced, cold-pressed organic ingredients and a 100% recycled aluminium tube." “Sustainability is a complex subject. As brands we have to make tough but informed decisions and be honest and transparent. At KeraStraight and INNOluxe, we reduce plastic as much as possible; our bottles are 100% recycled or bioplastic. We make everything recyclable and continually review and improve.” “At Authentic Beauty Concept we’re rolling out refill bars, encouraging retail refills which helps salons work to a more circular economy. For 2022, Schwarzkopf Professional is relaunching the Bonacure range as Bonacure Clean Performance – it will be 100% vegan and with packaging made of up to 97% recycled plastic.” “Kao salon division is committed to the continuous improvement of its ecological footprint – both as a company and at the salon level. Dedicated to responsible innovation, low impact product formulations, sustainable packaging and manufacturing, we are committed to meaningful partnerships with salons, supporting them with sustainability solutions.” “By 2023, 30% of the Revlon portfolio will be sustainable. Our American Crew Care range is vegan, formulated with +80% naturally derived ingredients and a minimum of 80% post-consumer recycled plastic. Revlons' ‘Always Connect’ initiative encourages salons to utilise a discounted service with Salon Sustainability, a company designed to help recycle wastage.” “Davines, certified B corp since 2016, extends its commitment to regeneration by renewing its partnership with Plastic Bank. This year, for every product sold, an equal amount of ocean-bound plastic will be collected.” “Paul Mitchell Clean Beauty takes a new approach to haircare, blending clean, vegan, farm-to-bottle botanicals and lab-optimised ingredients that are gentle on the hair, scalp and environment.” “We/Do has appointed Phoebe Dynevor as our Advocate for Positive Change. We are thrilled to welcome Phoebe to the family – she’s an authentic advocate for change who’s using her influence for good. We will invite more people to join the journey towards more responsible beauty routines and driving change.” “Yellow ALFAPARF professional colour tubes are made with 100% recycled post-industrial aluminium to reduce carbon emissions. To limit paper consumption, the boxes are made with 90% recycled paper and the information leaflet has been replaced with a QR code.” “Sustainability has been at the heart of FFØR since day one and is engrained in everything we do. We are constantly looking at more effective ways to be sustainable, including working with suppliers to explore ways of increasing the percentage of PCR in packaging. One day we will only use recycled materials.” “CLOUD NINE have announced a partnership with CleanHub, meaning we are now plastic responsible, protecting oceans from plastic waste. We have committed to collecting 1,000kg of plastic in 2022, working with female self-help groups in Southern India, the gateway for more than 80% of plastic in our oceans.” “At Amika, our goal in 2022 is to become cleaner and greener by producing up to 90% PCR packaging and achieving B Corp certification. We will continue to use the sustainable, fairtrade and responsibly grown superfruit sea buckthorn.” “At ELEVEN Australia we’ve made steps to reduce our carbon footprint. In 2022 we are launching packaging innovations such as our gentle cleanse shampoo & conditioner bars which are wrapped in 100% biodegradable packaging." “With recyclable plastics, FSC certified paper packaging and solar power production with a closed water circulation system (saving four million litres of clean drinking water per year!), Balmain Hair Couture is aiming for a fully sustainable collection with ecologically responsible processes.” “L’Oréal is committed to transforming its activities to respect the planet, and we are taking efforts further through a program called “L’Oréal for the future.” Our commitment is to ensure that our activities are respectful of the so-called “planetary boundaries”, meaning what earth can withstand, as defined by environmental science." “In 2022, L’Anza launched waterless haircare line T.R.U.E. Clean Shampoo, it contains 70% less water, comes in powder form, uses ocean-bound waste packaging and supports the Surfrider Foundation fighting plastic pollution.” This article has been adapted from a feature originally written by Rebecca Barnes for the April issue of Hairdressers Journal.