8 Tips for Taking Brunette Clients Blonde
“Being blonde is a full-time job,” Kim Kardashian recently tweeted, as she shared a snap of herself getting her roots touched up – again.
But taking brunette clients blonde doesn’t have to be a slog for colourists. “Going blonde from very dark bases is more achievable than ever before with the major technological advances in modern pre-lighteners,” says Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician of the Year, Clayde Baumann.
“To ensure you achieve a clean result with a healthy finish, there are a few things to remember when taking your client more than four shades lighter.”
Expert adive for taking brunette clients blonde
1) If you’re pre-lightening or cleansing hair that is already coloured, always perform a strand tenacity test to ascertain whether or not the hair strength will allow for such extreme lift.
2) Never mix anything stronger than 6% peroxide with your on-scalp formula. If your patron brand has a pre-lightened designed for on scalp, always use it. There are protective oils in the formula to assist in delicate lift that is gentle on skin.
3) For small root applications that require care when overlapping pre-existing blonde, try mixing a thicker (but allowable) formulation. A thin or runny bleach will overlap and cause unnecessary lift and chemical damage.
4) Always use a porosity equaliser (like Wella Blondor Seal & Care) in between your pre-lighten and tone services. This will not only reduce cuticular swelling, but also ensure an even result when toning.
5) As always, homecare on a client with pre-lightened hair is pivotal. Make sure your client has a comprehensive range of products that will ensure that she receives the necessary dosage of protein for strength and moisture for elasticity. If your client is going on holiday, advise them to purchase haircare that is sulphate and paraben free. It should also contain UVA and UVB filters and a powerful anti-oxidant to ensure long lasting colour. If your patron brand manufactures semis that are available for homecare, this is another sure way for your client to maintain her colour at home and ensure long lasting tone.
6) Manage expectation. This is arguably the most important thing to consider when taking a client blonde. Under promise and over deliver. Make sure that when you consult with you client on her major colour change, you veer away from final shade selection until you have seen what your achieved undertone is. No matter how light or easy to lift it seems, some light bases can contain double pigment and become hard to shift, which means that your target shade may be unattainable. You can avoid disappointment by managing your client’s expectation at every stage of her colour change.
7) When pre-lightening long virgin hair, remember to start with the ends. When cleaning out previously lightened hair, drop your peroxide content down to between 1.9% and 4%
8) Generally speaking, clients with pre-lightened hair can afford to shampoo their hair two three times a week. If your client shampoos daily, advise them to decrease the amount of washes per week. Pre-lightened hair has the tendency to release moisture more easily.