Hairdressers Journal

Country Couture at Jordan Burr Norfolk

2010-09-08T15:06:40Z

When renowned colourist Jo Jordan and her business partner Glen Burr decided to take the Jordan Burr brand from London to the Norfolk town of Holt, they knew that replicating the modern look of the original salon wouldn't be right.

Instead they opted for a salon that is boutique hotel style with a hint of country manor house, mixed with the muted, pastel tones that are a Jordan Burr trademark.

Says Jo: "Originally, we put some really inspirational mood boards together. Early on we were channelling a Vivienne Westwood meets Lord Nelson look with plenty of individual, bespoke touches. We also knew we wanted to bring a little London sparkle to the salon.

"We were conscious of not being too ostentatious, so although we wanted to incorporate contemporary features, we tended to let the layout and age of the building steer us.

"It's with the salon's fixtures and fittings - for example, our massage chairs - that we've let the high tech aspect come through. Elsewhere, we wanted to achieve a balance of practicality, comfort and luxury."

Fact File

Name: Jordan Burr
Address: White Lion Street, Holt, Norfolk
Owners: Jo Jordan, Glen Burr, Steve Lees and Stephen Heathfield
Size: 450sq ft
Clientele: Diverse
Staff: Five
Styling stations: Four
Budget: £60,000
Financing: Jo Jordan, Glen Burr and bank loan
Furniture: REM, antique and bespoke
Features: Individually sourced antique chairs, tartan stair runner.

Budget Box

Units, mirrors, shaving: £6,600
Plumbing: £6,500
Styling chairs: £2,200
Building works: £16,000
Lighting and electrical work: £8,000
Flooring: £2,000
Advertising/PR: £4,500
Legal expenses: £2,500
Miscellaneous: £11,700.

How to Achieve the Look
Styling chairs, backwash units: REM - 01282 619977
Antique chair, gilt mirrors and stag's head: James Beck Auctions, Fakenham, Norfolk -01328 851557.

Janet Maitland's Top Tips for Running a Successful Salon

2010-09-08T13:54:46Z

Janet Maitland has worked in the hairdressing industry for some 38 years with experience as diverse as working on a cruise ship, owning a salon and working as a hairdressing lecturer and verifier.

During the recession, Janet's two salons and academy have thrived. Here she shares her top tips for running a successful hairdressing business.

Keep investing in training
During a recession it's more important than ever to invest in your staff, providing them with good-quality training. This is also a good way of showing staff members how important they are to you and that they are valued.

Invest in your property
Maintain the exterior of your salon so that passersby don't keep going past. To tempt people into a salon when money might be tight, it has to look good.

Ensure you make a great first impression
First impressions count more than ever during a recession because people need to feel any expenditure is justified. Think about everything from the music that is playing to
the way the staff are dressed, the general atmosphere - clients want to enter a happy environment - and the way they are greeted.

Offer amazing customer service
Excellent client service is always vital, but never more so than during a recession when clients demand value for money. Don't forget the little extras such as good coffee - we offer a full range of cappuccinos and lattes.

Invest in a computer system
Don't just invest in a system and store data - use it! A computer system is a mine of information which can be used to measure and improve performance levels of staff and various areas of the business.

Conduct a customer survey
If you know what clients are unhappy about, then you can make changes.

Cat Deeley's Hair Secret? Batiste!

2010-09-08T09:48:05Z

]]> Coronation Street... But what about the beauty products they can't live without?

In a recent interview with OK! Magazine, TV presenter Cat Deeley revealed that the one product she can't be without is Batiste dry shampoo.

The So You Think You Can Dance? host might have a perfect new life in sunny California, but it seems she still relies on the best-selling dry shampoo to maintain her locks Stateside.

One-time SM:TV star Cat admitted that when she pays a visit back to Birmingham to visit her folks, she stocks up on Batiste to take home with her.

So, that's the perfect hair sorted... now how do we get the LA tan and impossibly long legs?

Find your nearest Batiste stockist here!

What Attracts the Best of British to Salon International?

2010-09-07T14:20:58Z

As well as the live shows, seminars and the chance to see all the new innovations in the industry in the hair show, Salon International is a perfect opportunity to rub shoulders with some of the most esteemed names in the industry.

Among the star turns who will be attending this year's event are HJ's 2010 British Hairdresser of the Year nominees. Here's why they love Salon International.

Phil Smith
"Salon International has everything a hairdresser could need. There's education,
the British Hairdressing Awards Gallery, shows and seminars, along with all the latest products and tools. Salon is the must-attend event.

Angelo Seminara
"Over the weekend, visitors can see everything a hairdresser could need, from salon design and innovative techniques to new technology, tools and business advice. It is also very inspirational - a great place to network and make contacts."

Gary Hooker and Michael Young
"Salon International is a great opportunity for educating both young and experienced stylists, because we believe you never stop learning. It's a great place to be continually inspired. Wandering around the exhibition you can see different techniques and approaches that can be incorporated into your own hairdressing skills. The exhibition is excellent for new stylists as it can give them a full understanding of what's on offer, and the creativity and passion that is involved."

Tim Hartley
"Salon International is our industry's version of Fashion Week - it's the perfect chance to see the latest products, techniques and collections. I like to watch what other hairdressers are doing and what youngsters are wearing; it's a great barometer of what hair and fashion is doing at the moment."

Akin Konizi
"This event is great for hairdressers to see what their peers are doing and get a glimpse of the sheer creativity and innovation taking place in our incredible industry. From the biggest names in hairdressing to rising stars coming through the ranks, this exhibition brings together every element, making it an inspiring weekend."

Mark Hayes
"Hairdressers should attend Salon International because it's a great opportunity to see the very best of the creativity that the British hair industry has to offer. It's also a great place to meet old friends and make new ones."

Errol Douglas
"I love the exchange of international ideas and the chance to see the diversity of British hairdressing at its best. It's a great place for inspiration and refreshing your ideas."

Hair Trends Set By the Celebrity Colour Chameleons

2010-09-07T13:36:48Z

Celebrities remain the main source of inspiration for many colour clients, but when their idols change their hair on a regular basis it can be difficult for dedicated fans to keep up....

"Celebs who always change their hair colour are a nightmare for most hairdressers," admits Helen Thomas of GiellyGreen, London. "Those on the A-list have all day to spend in the salon - and that's often how long it takes for a dramatic change."

But Melanie Giles of Melanie Giles Hairdressing, Bath, disagrees. "Keeping up with trends is good for the client and for the colourist," she says. "It keeps our work interesting and prevents us getting stuck in a rut."

Lisa Shepherd agrees. "We love the fact that celebrities regularly change their look and that clients find it inspiring. It demonstrates to the client that they don't have to be scared of colour."

Dramatic celebrity makeovers can provide clients with ideas they'd never previously considered, says Gary Hooker of Hooker & Young. "Rihanna's two-tone application has brought a new knowledge of colour techniques to the public," he says. "It's something clients are curious about, so it's important that your team is aware of what celebs are up to."

This summer's Balayage trend - freehand, painted-on colour - and pastel hues from previous seasons are further examples of how celebrities have introduced fashion colours to a wider audience.

The most important step in any colour change is a thorough consultation. "Look at the natural hair colour, texture and type to determine the shade which will best complement your client," says Chris Williams, 2009 Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician of the Year. "Discuss what it is they like about the celebrity's colour, and look at variations which will suit them and their lifestyle."

It's also important to inform your clients that a dramatic change might not to be possible in one appointment. Be honest and make sure they understand that their dream colour might not be possible - at least not instantly.

"Educate your clients to be realistic," says Christel Lundqvist, creative colour director of HOB Salons. "Offer them a colour journey, to get them there in stages, rather than just saying 'no' outright. If you under-promise and over-deliver, your client will walk out much happier, and by engaging them on a journey you will create loyalty."

"Clients can often be fairly unrealistic in their expectations," adds Nana Gries, Toni & Guy international technical creative director. "Celebrities use hair pieces and extensions, which can give the false impression that hair can be changed without consequence.

Celebrity chameleons like Lindsay Lohan provide a perfect example of how drastic changes - especially to long hair - can cause irreparable damage. It's far easier to maintain a good condition for clients with shorter hair; Linda Evangelista in the 90s is a perfect example."

Nana suggests incorporating colour placement, rather than global applications, which will minimise hair trauma and make a bold statement without compromising condition. She also suggests that those considering a major colour overhaul invest in a course of keratin-based in-salon treatments, either to build up the condition before a colour change, or to maintain optimum condition following the colour service.

While in-salon treatments will keep colour looking perfect for longer, it's also important to advise your clients on suitable aftercare products. "Condition is everything," says Ian Davies of Ocean Hairdressing, Cardiff.

"I'd prescribe an everyday conditioner for their hair type to be used after every wash, along with an intensive moisturising treatment once a week at home. Your client also needs a cutting plan to maintain the shape, as well as the colour and condition. This will help smooth the cuticle, locking in colour and preventing fade."

Finally, don't forget that there are plenty of less drastic options for those who want to reinvent themselves on a regular basis. Louise Wood of The Hair Advice Centre, Englefield Green, says: "Sometimes subtle changes are all it takes to freshen up an existing colour. Adding some lighter pieces with a Balayage technique, or placing some slightly contrasting panels in a fringe area, can really update a colour."

For a subtle transformation, Peter Prosser of Peter Prosser Hairdressing, Hereford, suggests simple tonal changes. He recommends fresh toners on blonde hair, to create shades from gold to soft pinks; or semi-permanent colour on darker hair for rich mahogany browns and reds. These colours can improve condition and add shine.

Ultimately, while celebrities will always dictate trends, the most important thing for you and your client is a gorgeous colour that suits them and their lifestyle. As Peter says: "Why not be the one to set a new trend yourself? Inspire others to follow you!"

Check out some of our favourite colour chameleons on the hairstyles that HJi Hearts page

How to Cut and Colour an On-Trend Pixie Crop

2010-09-07T10:03:48Z

Pixie crops are one of the looks of the hottest looks of the year. This short textured look created by the Keune International academy team can also be worn sharp and sleek.

Click on the images to see larger images and instructions.


Before	Step One (Colour): Take a triangle section from the corner of the eye to the highest point on the head and back to the corner of the other eye. Make a second 1cm wide triangular section inside the first triangle.	Step Two: At the point of the triangle on the crown, make a 5cm wide rectangular section on the round of the head to a point between the crown and the occipital bone.

Step Three: Below the lower triangle section on the side of the head make a 0.5cm wide slice parting and apply formula A.	Step Four: Below the rectangular section on the side, make a 0.5cm wide slice parting and apply formula A. Place second foil 1cm below the first and apply formula A. Repeat on the opposite side.	Step Five: Apply formula B to the front section outlining the top triangle.

Step Six: Apply formula B to the base of the top triangle section and formula A to the lengths and ends of this section.	Step Seven: Apply formula B to the remaining hair and leave to process for 30 minutes.	Step Eight (Cut):Make a horseshoe section from the corner of one eye to the corner of the other eye.

Step Nine: Make a horizontal parting from temple to temple about 2-3cm wide. Blunt-cut the front contour from temple to temple in a straight line, following the natural fall of the hair.	Step Ten: Repeat towards the crown of the head until the entire section is cut.	Step Eleven:Make a radial parting from ear to ear and a vertical section from crown to nape.

Step Twelve: Beginning at the crown, following the round of the head, blunt-cut each section keeping the finger position vertical and the graduation at 90 degrees, using a travelling guideline.	Step Thirteen: Continue around the back of the head to the ear with pivot partings until the back section is completed. Repeat on the other side of the back section.	Step Fourteen:Keeping the finger position vertical, blunt-cut the sides at 90 degrees to create increased graduation. Repeat on the other side.

Step Fifteen: Determine the length around the ear and blunt-cut in a horizontal line in front of the ear.	Step Sixeen: At the temple, comb hair forward and blunt-cut the hair to open up the face, leaving the horizontal line in front of the ear. Repeat on the other side.	Step Seventeen:On the side, make a diagonal forward section from the crown to the temple. Using the front as a guide, keep fingers horizontal and elevated at 45 degrees to remove any excess weight. Repeat on the other side.
		Colours Used Formula A 15ml Semi Color 6 dark blonde 15ml Semi Color Red Infinity 6.66 dark infinity red blonde Mixed with 60ml Semi Color Activator Formula B 60ml Tinta Color 5 light brown mixed with 60ml 3% (10 vol) Tinta Cream Developer
Styling: Rough-dry hair for texture.	Styling: Blow-dry hair, then use clippers on the perimeter for a sharp line.

About the look
Hair: Keune international academy team
Make-up: Dominique Samuel
Styling: Ilanga van Throo
Photographs: Hans de Vries

See more instructions to cutting and colouring on-trend looks on the hairstyle guides channel.

Peaches Geldof Does Bombshell Blonde

2010-09-06T11:12:48Z

Colour chameleon Peaches Geldof doesn't always get her hair right - but with this new blonde shade, the socialite looks super glamorous. ]]>

The fashionista/presenter/model/woman of many talents paid a visit to HOB Salon in Camden, where Creative Colour Director, Christel Lundqvist updated Peaches' brunette locks with a sophisticated new blonde shade.

Christel says, "Peaches came in with a light brown colour, and we took her to an ivory blonde infused with camel and oat tones.

She continues, "We achieved this look through creative highlighting techniques, to create the subtle infusion of different tones."

Peaches was obviously pleased with her new look, tweeting a picture of her barnet to her many Twitter fans. "Dyed my hair super blonde again," wrote Peaches. "It's good to have it back!"

HOB has attracted a huge array of celebrity fans lately, including Pixe Lott, JLS and Ellie Goulding.

Celebs Love New Season Red

2010-09-06T09:14:32Z

While red hair is always a firm favourite at HJi, this season we're pleased to welcome a new wave of super bright shades - as modelled by some of the most stylish celebs.

]]>
Bright, bold, and most definitely not for the faint hearted, new season red makes a serious style statement. No surprise then that it's been adopted by some of the most stylish celebs on the block.

Florence Welch favours an ethereal, eccentric look, and her Crayola-bright orange hair works perfectly with her pale skin and bleached eyebrows. Meanwhile Alphabeat front woman Stine Bramsen has been most colours under the sun, but this rich, red velvet cupcake-hue looks simply stunning on the Danish star - particularly with that fab pink lipstick.

Rihanna is another colour chameleon, but this dramatic red has inspired thousands of imitations - although not all are quite so keen on her pudding bowl haircut! Rock chick Kat Von D might be famous for her tattooing skills, but the Miami Ink star also deserves a mention for her spectacular shade of rockin' red hair.

Neville Ramsay Heading to Africa for Charity

2010-09-01T15:23:13Z

The team at Ramsay & Johnson, Sunderland are getting behind their boss, co-owner Neville Ramsay.

]]> The Ramsay & Johnson team is helping to raise sponsorship for Neville's forthcoming trip to the Tanzainian jungle where he will be working with the charity COCO (Comrades of Children Overseas) to set up a water harvesting project.

Neville is half way to achieving his sponsorship target of £3,000.

If you'd like to support him visit www.justgiving.com/neville-ramsay

Clipso Cheshunt Raises £1,700 in Race for Life

2010-09-01T13:29:44Z

The team from Clipso in Cheshunt, Hertfordshire recently raised £1,700 for Race for Life Cancer Research.

Salon owner. Ann Marie Rayment and the team took part in the event at London's Hyde Park.

Said Ann Marie: "It was a fantastic day. I want to say a massive thank you to our clients, friends and family who sponsored us and helped raise such a huge amount for a great charity."

Paul Mitchell Heads To The Hills!

2010-09-01T09:33:53Z

]]> The Hills, style matters. Although Audrina Patridge might not be queen bee - surely LC is the gal everyone wants to be - mane maintenance is still of optimum importance.

The LA lovely has undertaken something of a transformation over the six series of the reality show, both in terms of her tumultuous life and her personal style. Gone are the flat black tresses of the early days, replaced with elegant, glossy brunette locks.

Paul Mitchell Editorial Director Lucie Doughtry has worked her magic on Audrina, using Paul Mitchell The Color to transform the Hills honey.

Perfect colour, an exciting new career and a hunky new bloke - the Hills might be over, but Audrina's new life is just getting started!

Find your nearest Paul Mitchell stockist here!

How To Measure Team Performance and Manage Your Findings.

2010-08-31T15:31:28Z

Hairdressing industry expert Nergish Wadia-Austin is the creator of PHAB Standard Ltd, the first performance-based hairdressing industry standard.

Here she explains the need for measuring performance and then acting upon the standards being delivered and reveals what your use of performance stats says about you as a manager.

For a basic hairdressing salon, for example, it could have as few as five departments:

Cutting
Colouring
Treatments
Volume (perming/straightening)
Retail.

Unless the salon owner measures their salon's and team's performance (on an individual basis) in each of these departments, the performance of these areas will remain static.

The other basic areas of performance that should be measured is client acquisition and retention. This should include:

Total number of customers seen per day
The number of customers that are repeat/regular/returning/recommended or request customers.

These results will identify if the salon is managing to bring their customers back and, most importantly, which of the professionals in the salon are retaining their customers and which ones are driving them away.

KPIs can also tell you about the type of manager you are.

In my experience, I have found there to be three types of manager:

Type 1: These are the really successful managers; they measure all their results, understand what the results tell them about their business and use the results to manage their staff's performance and grow their business.

This method of running a business is the preferred way and reaps great rewards both in terms of revenue generation and keeping staff motivated to deliver great results for their customers.

The key is to keep their team interested and focused on the importance and impact of their results. This will help them to grow their columns year after year and will give their clients what they are paying for and help to keep them loyal. These Type 1 Managers are the leaders of our industry.

Type 2: These are the managers that monitor all their performance results, but don't analyse what they tell them about their business and each individual's performance.

This Type 2 Manager does not realise that their efforts of tracking, recording and storing these results are a waste of their time if they are not used to assist staff in achieving their goals.
These managers should start to read, understand and use the story their results tell them each week about their business and the individuals within it.

Each week they should be reflecting on each department's performance and each individual's performance. Set aside a little time to chat with individuals and work out which areas of their performance need improving. The solutions may take the form of knowledge-based training, skill-based training, revisiting or confidence building.

Currently, the same level of poor performance is allowed to continue day after day, uninterrupted, forming bad habits which eventually set the salon's standard. By not using their recorded results they are causing and enabling this poor standard.

Type 3: These managers don't bother to record any of these crucial results thereby ignoring the business and the individuals within it. The time honoured route to business stagnation.

These managers should divide up their business into departments. At a minimum, they should start recording the basics as mentioned above, for a period of 12 weeks and keep an eye on their results each week.

Weekly results should be discussed with their team just so that they can start to get each individual focused on exactly what happens in their chair after each client's visit. Are they managing to please their customers? Are they bringing them back to their chair? Are they being recommended to their friends? Are they delivering haircare advice during that visit?

Soon a pattern will emerge and they will be better placed to make employment decisions based on fact rather than 'gut instinct' or 'feelings'. They will also be able to plan training in their salon based on these findings.

How To Demonstrate Perfect Leadership Skills

2010-08-31T15:07:43Z

Speaking at Paul Mitchell's The Gathering 2010 in Las Vegas, Winn Claybaugh, dean of Paul Mitchell schools, told delegates: "Leadership is not a position, it's a mindset - an attitude. As a boss, if you are putting out ego-driven leadership, then you are going to attract ego-driven stylists."

Winn put the following question to delegates: "As a leader what message are you putting out?"

He offered the following advice on how to 'put out' the right message:

Stop looking so busy
However busy you are, when you arrive at the salon, don't walk past all your staff and clients and close the office door. If you do, what will the buzz be in the salon that day? The team and clients will all be talking about what a bad mood you're in. This will damage sales and creativity - the work of the team as a whole will be affected.

Celebrate your people
Stop thinking that your best asset is your location or your marketing programme. Your best asset is your people. Whenever I finish speaking to my boss, he asks: 'Is there anything more I can do for you?' It's about adopting a servant's heart.
Old school leadership is to dictate and manipulate. Without praising your people, all you are doing is engaging their time. They will show up when they have to and collect their wages.

Create a loving environment
As a boss you need to be available and approachable. You need to realise that you are like a conductor of an orchestra and that one swoop of your baton can have a powerful affect. The words that just tumble out of your mouth can destroy people, or send them soaring and create loyalty beyond belief.

Make sure your team is having fun
If you value your staff they will have fun. When staff are having fun creativity sky rockets and absenteeism diminishes. Creating a happy environment needs to be a daily priority in your salon. If staff is in good spirits this will create an enjoyable environment for everyone, including clients, which can only be good for business.

Chapel Artistic Team Support the Environmental Justice Foundation

2010-08-31T13:11:13Z

The artistic team at The Chapel, also known as The Chapelettes, have taken time of out their busy column of clients to style the hair for the Environmental Justice Foundation's (EJF) latest collection.

The foundation has created a collection of t-shirts designed by some of fashion's brightest talents including Alice Temperley, Giles Deacon and Betty Jackson and to lend their support to the cause, The Chapel not only styled the hair for the shoot, but also did the make-up and provided the perfect cool location, their Islington Salon.

The organic cotton t-shirts are designed around the theme of 'childhood, lost innocence and hope' to represent more than a million children around the world forced to labour in cotton production and are favourites of eco-chic celebrities Lily Cole, Sophie Ellis-Bextor and Joss Stone.

Toby Dicker, managing director of The Chapel, said: "With the recent formation of The Chapelettes, we were delighted to be approached by EJF to support this project.

"As always, the team pulled together to ensure everything went really smoothly, particular thanks to Kelly, Dan and Khadijat for their work on the day, its great to see some fantastic results were achieved for a great cause."

Want to get your hands on a Environmental Justice Foundation t-shirt? You can buy one from www.ejfoundation.org/shop.

Aveda Install an Urban Bee Hive

2010-08-31T11:44:29Z

Famed for their environmental leadership, Aveda has introduced a new eco initiative by installing two urban bee hives on the roof terrace of the flagship Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa in London.

The project has been pioneered by the Aveda Lifestyle Salon and Spa operations coordinator, Gemma Court who says "Our roof terrace is a natural wilderness and has matured over time to be a tiny nature reserve in an area better known for tourists and traffic jams.

"The hives will yield our very own honey that we will label and distribute to our staff, so we are guaranteed to get sweet reward for our investment."

The honey bee is in decline, which is threatening to destabilise an entire eco system of plants and animals that rely on the busy bees' industrious role in nature, so Aveda sought the help of the 'Honey Bees at Home' organisation to do their bit to aid the cause.

The roof terrace hives will now be used as a great source of education, entertainment and delicious London City honey.