6 essential afro haircare tips

Top Advice on working with Afro Hair from HJ's 2010 Afro Hairdressers of the Year Kim Johnson and Michelle Sultan from Hype Coiffure in London.

Differences between Afro and European hair

Although there aren't a huge amount of differences in cutting Afro hair, as opposed to Asian and European hair, there are many distinctions when it comes to finishing and styling. More time, heat and product are needed during the finishing stages than on any other hair types for a fabulous result.

Colouring Afro hair

Basic knowledge of colouring hair is required, but it takes experience to identify how certain types of Afro hair will respond to the colouring process. There tends to be a lot more pigment in Afro and Asian hair, so the colour service needs adjusting accordingly. Additionally, Afro hair can sometimes be chemically processed, and you will need to know how to recognise this so you can provide a safe service with the results your client is hoping for.

Condition

Afro hair is particularly prone to dryness and breakage, especially if your client uses chemical treatments like relaxers. It is essential to select products specific to your client's hair condition, whether that is for repair, scalp care or colour longevity. The key ingredient for any Afro conditioning regime is moisture to make hair soft and more manageable, and protein to strengthen.

Oil treatments

Afro hair is naturally dry, so once a month, alongside their shampoo and conditioning treatments, recommend that clients opt for an oil treatment to nourish and hydrate their strands. Simply apply the oil along the lengths to the ends, then wrap the hair in a plastic cap and gently heat with a hairdryer to activate the product. Leave on for 10 to 15 minutes and rinse out any excess oil, leaving silky soft, glossy locks.

Relaxing

Relaxing is a chemical treatment and can cause irreparable damage if not done correctly. This is a specialist service that should not be attempted without in-depth training and knowledge of the many different types of relaxers. What to take into account when relaxing:

• To keep a salon-fresh, smooth finish, your client should visit the salon every eight to 12 weeks to have their hair re-relaxed. 
• Ensure your client hasn't shampooed their hair for a minimum of five days prior to relaxing, as it will wash away the hair's natural oils making the scalp more susceptible to burning. With relaxing, the more oil on the hair, the better protection for the scalp. Oil is always applied to the hair as well as a protective layer around the scalp line and surrounding areas to avoid irritating the skin.
• All new clients should attend a pre-appointment consultation and have strand tests with different types of relaxers to ascertain the ones that produce the best result.

Trims

People with Afro hair should have at least half an inch trimmed off their hair every six weeks to keep it in tip-top condition.